Fishing - Largemouth Bass

Click here for guided flyfishing for Bass

The United States of America is the original mother country of Largemouth Bass (Micropterus salmoides) and in 1928 the genus was, via the Netherlands, introduced to South African waters. Since then, Largemouth Bass have spread to every nook and cranny of the country. Any flyfisher who while targeting flooded vegetation, lily pads or submerged timber has had their fly engulfed by an infuriated, water-exploding monster will be testament as to why Largemouth Bass are turning out to be one of the most popular species to pursue with the long rod. While they are undoubtedly one of the most exhilarating freshwater fish to hook, play and land they are also an alien species which are a threat to our indigenous fish. For that reason, any largemouth bass caught in river systems should be removed. In closed systems, however, they ought to be caught and released to guarantee years of pleasure for generations to come.

Largemouth Bass to make knees quiver

How to:
Bass come equipped with enough apparatus to give any angler a run for their money so it only makes sense to go after them as prepared as possible.

Rods:
5 to 8 weight fast action rods are a must. Casting bulky, wind resistant flies with slow, lighter weight rods is unmanageable.

Reels:
Good quality, lightweight reel with an adequate drag. Not many bass will sprint into the distance leaving you watching your backing peel from your reel, but when one does the last thing you want is a slipping, shuddering, defective drag.

Lines:
A weight forward floating line will be used nearly all the time. A sinking line of between 3 to 5 ips sink rate might be used if conditions allow. Going one line weight up on the AFTM rating will only help turn over hulking flies.

Leaders:
7 to 10 foot leaders constructed using varying breaking strains of monofilament (e.g. Maxima Ultragreen). Butt section of 20lbs, mid section of 15lbs and tippets of 10lbs. Longer leaders turn bushy flies over better and make fishing easier in clear water. Short leaders, occasionally a straight 5 foot section of 10lb mono will be sufficient for murky water.

Flies:
In general, an assortment of larger flies will be used. Bigger flies usually get eaten by bigger bass. A couple of the following flies in various colours are amongst the most established. Dahlberg Diver, Bass Zonker, Foam Popper; Foam Flipper and Deer Hair Mouse patterns for floating lines. Strip Leech, Mrs Simpson Fish and large Woolly Bugger patterns for sinking lines.

View a selection of flies for Bass. Click here.

Additional Nice-To-Haves:

Polarized Sunglasses:

Not only do they keep the glare off the water and block out harmful rays (good brands anyway) but they also protect exposed eyes from badly directed flies. You’ll spot more bass in the shallows wearing these.

Cap or wide brimmed hat:

Shields your face from the sun as well as additional protection from rogue flies.

Stripping Basket:

You either love them or loathe them, but they no doubt save your line from tangles, help you move swiftly to a spot where you've seen a fish move and stripping baskets also keep lines from picking up loose dirt, gravel and debris.

Chest Waders:

Sometimes wading into a dam is the only way to reach good looking structure. From time to time, a decent bass will wrap you up in the weeds, reeds or anything they can find. You’ll have to get in the water to free them. Breathable waders are the best for the warmer months but PVC and Neoprene will do. If you’re brave enough, you could always wet wade.

Hook Sharpener:

Only the sharpest hooks penetrate through a bass' boney jaw and a hook sharpener is a simple way to make sure your hooks stay razor-sharp.

Rubber Soled Wading Boots:

Very helpful when walking along patchy banks of dams. Safeguarding you from sprained ankles, cuts and snakebites.

All of these and more are available through our retail store.
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